Cocktail Attire for Men, Explained by Menswear Experts

Save for the “doctor is ready now”, do any four words inspire more trepidation—and less excitement—than “cocktail attire for men”? (We’re exaggerating, but only a little.)

What’s the difference between “formal” and “cocktail” attire?

Dress codes are a bit like taxes: intimidating, esoteric, and ultimately inescapable. Unlike filling out a 1040 form, however, dressing up for a formal or semi-formal event can actually be a lot of fun once you get into it, provided you know who to ask for advice. While getting decked out for a black-tie event can be relatively simple (buy it or rent it, you’ll never go wrong with a well-tailored black tux) the “cocktail” dress code is an altogether more intimidating proposition, requiring more interpretation and finesse.

Since it’s only a matter of time before you’ll be called upon to put together a cocktail ensemble of your own, here’s everything you need to know according to some of the most knowledgeable guys in our rolodex.

What, exactly, is cocktail attire for men?

The first thing to understand is that the term itself has less to do with what’s on the bar and more to do with the days of the early 20th century when “cocktail” was shorthand for a specific type of semi-formal event. That means while you may indeed be drinking a cocktail, you shouldn’t expect to dress as you would for a post-work round of margaritas. “Cocktail attire was once the crown jewel of mid-20th-century soirées, and meant dressing with effortless elegance—polished and put-together,” explains Buzz Tang, the co-founder of Hong Kong-based tailoring brand The Anthology, and an expert in all things polished and put-together.

What’s an example of cocktail attire?

Today’s cocktail dress code is situated between the comfort and flexibility of business casual and the prescriptive formality of black tie, incorporating elements of each. What that means for you depends on the venue, who’s hosting, and how boundary-pushing you want to be with your getup. On the most formal end of the cocktail scale, you’d be expected to show up in a dark suit (think: navy, black, or charcoal) with a white shirt and a dark, solid-colored tie, along with a pair of polished black Oxfords or brogues.

If you sense a more fun and flexible vibe (a summer wedding reception, say), you can feel confident to mix things up while staying roughly within the bounds of the traditional jacket, shirt, and tie. “If you wanted to experiment with a different colored suit, I’d probably still keep it dark,” advises Max Papier, the Director of E-Commerce at The Armoury in NYC. “I’d experiment with different materials, like if it’s a summer cocktail event, a dark navy linen or seersucker could be pretty cool.”

What are the general rules of cocktail attire?

How far you want to push the limits of the cocktail dress code (or any dress code, for that matter) is really up to you. “Cocktail attire is about a sharp, well-put-together look, but there’s more room for individuality,” notes veteran Savile Row tailor Richard Anderson. If you want to move the needle in a more modern direction, Anderson suggests wearing a crisp, solid-colored white or black tee in place of a button-down under a perfectly tailored dark suit.

What isn’t acceptable for cocktail attire?

Swapping your Oxfords for a nice pair of loafers could work, as could trading your suit for a pair of charcoal trousers and a sports coat, so long as you err on the side of conservatism with the fabric and pattern. “Avoid anything that detracts from an effortless, refined look—ill-fitting clothing, overly casual attire, excessive logos, and excessive accessories,” Anderson cautions.

“Less is often more when it comes to cocktail attire; the goal is to look polished without trying too hard.” And for purists, that means no jeans or sneakers, even really nice ones. (Though, yes, most veteran GQ staffers will insist that if your denim is dark and tailored just so, it could probably pass muster in lieu of proper trousers.)