In 1926, when Rolex founder Hans Wilsdorf launched Tudor as a more affordable alternative to the Crown, he took advantage of his original brand’s existing parts and designs to create economies of scale. A 20th-century Tudor Submariner, for example, is effectively a Rolex Submariner—case, bracelet, and all—with an off-the-shelf Swiss movement and a different dial. No wonder, then, that some collectors have been dismissive of Tudor in the past as, well, a “poor man’s Rolex.”
Today, this is a mischaracterization of Tudor itself. Because while the brand does continue to pull much of its design language from its big brother’s catalog, it no longer relies on generic movements—instead producing many of its own calibers via its movement-making arm, Kenissi. And while it certainly offers plenty of vintage-inspired designs of a more spartan or restrained nature—think the Black Bay 58, 54, and Black Bay Pro—it’s found its own style and character, primarily via the use of bright colors.
Take the new Pelagos FXD Chrono “Yellow,” for example: A limited edition of 300 pieces powered by the Manufacture Calibre MT5813 automatic movement, it modifies the brand’s fixed-spring-bar, dual-register sport chronograph with a black ceramic case and bright pops of yellow in the tachymeter scale, totalizers, and fabric strap. A celebration of star Swiss cyclist Fabian Cancellara’s ascent to ownership of the Tudor Pro Cycling Team, it takes its colorway from the signature yellow jersey of the Tour de France race leader—a jersey that Cancellara wore for a total of 29 race days and eight stage victories. But more than just a sunny riff on the 43mm matt-finished carbon composite sports watch, it’s the newest in a long line of summery timepieces that signal a youthful direction for the brand.
Tudor
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