The Best Looks from Pitti Uomo 107’s Guest Designers: MM6…

This season’s Pitti Uomo guest designers were MM6 Maison Margiela and Setchu, who respectively held their Firenze runways on the second and third nights of the menswear tradeshow.

MM6, Maison Margiela’s sixth line launched in 1997, was initially a diffusion collection of women’s affordable basics. This past week was the first time that the Parisian label held a menswear-exclusive runway since debuting on the catwalk in 2013.

Inspired by the legendary American jazz musician Miles Davis, the MM6 Fall/Winter 2025 collection sought to interpret what it means to be masculine and dressy today. The anonymous design collective behind MM6 achieved this through straightforward, traditional suiting as well as outwear and accessories that infused a healthy dose of flamboyant colors and textures. Faux leather and fur in shades of black, brown, khaki, and wine appeared in the form of long coats, dinner jackets, tailored trousers, and almost knee-high boots. The most covetable and talked-about pieces were the long leather moto gloves featuring oversized snap-button pockets up the arms. While a return to masculinity may seem like a bold move for a brand that has largely been genderless even before the term became a trend, it adheres to Martin Margiela’s original military-deconstructivist codes.

The third and last day of Pitti Uomo 107 was closed out by Setchu, a brand founded in 2020 by Milan-based Japanese designer Satoshi Kuwata. The 2023 LVMH Prize winner hosted his Fall/Winter 2025 runway at the beautiful Florence National Central Library, with multifunctional looks inspired by the ever-changing forms of origami paper. Utilizing his Savile Row experience in tailoring, Kuwata turned suiting and outwear into customizable pieces with modular buttons, straps, and zipper hardware.

See below for some of the best runway looks from this past week’s Pitti Uomo.