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If the Levi’s denim jacket you’re chasing isn’t a trucker, check out these.
If Francis Ford Coppola is responsible for the greatest trilogy in movie history, the greatest trilogy in denim jacket history is the work of a just-as-legendary name: Levi’s.
The Type I Levi’s denim jacket, introduced in 1905 and originally called the 506XX, featured a single flapped chest pocket, a cinch-back waist adjuster, and a boxy, slightly cropped fit. The Type II (introduced in 1953), a.k.a. the 507XX, included two symmetrical flap pockets that sat a little lower on the chest, swapped the cinch-back for side adjuster tabs, kept the signature pleats, and did it all up in a roomier fit. Then came the Type III (introduced in 1967), or the 70505—arguably the most identifiable of the bunch. It added slanted chest and waist pockets, ditched the pleats and cinch-back altogether, and slimmed down the silhouette considerably.
Omar Atwan
Omar Atwan
In retrospect, each type represented a shift in denim’s evolution: from rugged workwear (Type I) to refined utility (Type II) to casual, everyday wear (Type III).
Got all that? Great, let’s talk personal favorites. Sicko that I am, I own all three—but my heart belongs to the Type II. Hell, I’d even say it’s my favorite Levi’s product, ever. I love the brand’s jeans and crewneck sweatshirts, but in my mind, this jacket is peak Levi’s craftsmanship, a relic from long before the era of mass production. The version I own is from Levi’s Vintage Clothing, the denim juggernaut’s archival-inspired sub-label, which absolutely nailed the repro, crafting it in Japan with selvedge denim and the coveted Big “E” red tab, a major plus for nerds like me.
I’ve had mine for over a year, and the selvedge is still crisp. I went with a small (38” chest), and it fits perfectly—which is to say, just a tad more snug than other jackets. The two symmetrical flap pockets by the lower chest are spacious, though I had to break the habit of stuffing my hands into traditional waist pockets. Of the three Levi’s denim jackets that matter, the Type II has the most exaggerated collar, but buttoned all the way up, it looks incredibly sharp. My favorite detail, though? The telltale retro pleats; they’re subtle, but they help the jacket look so much cleaner.
By now, of course, there are plenty of other reputable brands making meticulous reproductions of the Type II, but take it from an obsessive: they’re not like this. The original Type II’s production run lasted less than a decade (the style was temporarily discontinued in 1962), but this one, I assure you, will have a much longer tenure in my closet. It’s been my go-to with thermals, jeans, and chinos—and I’ll gladly risk staining a pair of white dungarees with indigo in my commitment to the bit.
My only goal this spring is to wear it non-stop, break it in properly, and then finally give it a wash to score those sweet, sweet fades.
Omar Atwan
Omar Atwan
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