2024 Streetwear Power Ranking

In today’s digital landscape of personalized algorithms and microtrends, it might seem futile to try and define streetwear. From Instagram brands that sell casual basics to atelier-level runway collections, streetwear has penetrated almost all facets of fashion, and we pick and choose what we want based on what’s on our screens. But that’s also streetwear’s most compelling and enduring appeal: Despite being the inspiration for a myriad of hybrid styles (quiet luxury, Y2K, mob wife, blokecore), and corporatized to no end, the nucleus of street culture remains intact. If anything, its commercialization beyond the OG niche has only proven its true power. As the streetwear industry grows in influence and size, its core has stayed immune to fleeting currents. And it’s the people on this list who are making sure of that.

The criteria for inclusion on our Streetwear Power Ranking are as follows: 1. These individuals actually make and sell apparel and/or sneakers in the streetwear space; 2. They have a solid portfolio of work with strong brand desirability and relevance; and 3. They bring high value—whether it’s cultural or monetary—to larger design and retail projects.

Where an individual ranks in the top 25 is based on weighing their recent output against all of these factors. But we’d like the list to speak for itself. See below for Complex’s Streetwear Power Ranking of 2024.

2023 Ranking: N/A (New)

As one of the best-dressed rappers of all time, ASAP Rocky has undoubtedly influenced which brands people wear for over a decade. Just ask him. But when it comes to his own fashion endeavors, Rocky has never had the level of success that you may expect from someone of his caliber.

Currently, he’s in the process of changing that narrative. His runway debut in June at Paris Fashion Week, “American Sabotage,” finally showed us how Rocky’s years of soaking up game would translate to his own AWGE collection. You’ve also seen Puma put a lot of faith in him by making him the creative director of its F1 division. So far, it’s proven to be a good move. The young, cool tastemakers that look to Rocky for inspiration seem to be embracing the handful of Puma capsules he has dropped, especially the most recent one from April for which Rocky helped create amazing visuals. He is clearly taking the partnership seriously.

Despite these promising prospects, it remains to be seen whether his runway collection will resonate in the marketplace once it’s released. There’s certainly a chance he can shoot up on this list next year if that proves successful, but for now, there isn’t enough concrete evidence to place him any higher. –Mike DeStefano

2023 Ranking: #20

Chris and Beth Birkett Gibbs aren’t only on this list because of Union’s legacy. To this day, they’re still a barometer of cool for plenty of large brands trying to make something pop in the market. When Nike needs to drum up hype for a new retro release—the most recent example being the Field General originally from the ’70s—it calls on Union to remix it for a younger and more fashionable consumer. Nike also gives the retailer the freedom to design thoughtful apparel to coincide with the sneakers, such as embroidered letterman jackets and mesh jersey tops. Adding to the well-done execution are important inspirations from Black history, which are core to Union’s storytelling (the apparel pieces were named after activists such as Bobby Seale and Eldridge Cleaver). The release didn’t move the needle in the market, and while that doesn’t negate the trust Nike instilled in them to execute such a big project, we do have to dock Union a few points for it.

Union’s other notable 2024 partners run the gamut from Awake NY to Clarks. Their in-line apparel is also worth mentioning. Items like the No Man Curse tee and the Maceo track pants with crocheted stripes show just how much the Gibbs family cares about crafting great products that tell the stories of their communities. Above all, Chris and Beth know how to curate product, and their customers know that. Getting stocked at Union can make or break a small designer. Without a doubt, Chris and Beth are continuing to push streetwear forward. –Mike DeStefano

2023 Ranking: N/A (New)

If you stroll through the streets of downtown LA or SoHo, New York, you’ll more than likely spot a Hellstar hoodie or sweats along your journey. LA-based Hellstar has surfaced as one of the most in-demand streetwear brands of 2024. While prices stay within $300, expect to have to shell out more than triple that on the resale market, lest you miss out on one of their limited releases.

Hellstar was founded in 2020 by Sean Holland and Joseph “Juice” Pendleton, who’ve turned their few thousand dollars of initial funding into a $100-million-dollar-plus business this year. Inspired by Holland’s Christian upbringing (his father is a pastor), Hellstar infuses biblical references into their designs, which also shows through the brand’s choice of name. “A lot of times, earth can feel like hell, you know? Through all the bad, and all the hard times, keep shining,” Holland explains.

Since launching with graphic T-shirts and hats, Hellstar has expanded to sell some of the most highly sought-after sweatsuits, varsity jackets, and bandanas. They’ve been worn by a number of stars in the industry such as Young Thug, Kai Cenat, G Herbo, and more. The brand’s successful use of retro-inspired graphics, bright colors, and blending of various subcultures such as hip-hop, skate, and ’80s punk have made it a force to be reckoned with. –Bree Walker

2023 Ranking: N/A (New)

Since starting Who Decides War in 2019, Ev Bravado and Tela D’Amore have attracted a cult following in their hometown New York City. That has a lot to do with their brand’s authentic representation of NYC culture, from co-signing one of the city’s most promising young stars, Cash Cobain, to collaborating with the likes of Dipset, Ruff Ryders, and most recently, Pelle Pelle, whose leather jackets have had a huge resurgence thanks in part to WDW.

What made 2024 so impactful for Who Decides War are its partnerships with big brands, which are sure to expand the label’s presence beyond the five boroughs. H&M tapped the design duo for a three-way Basquiat collab that was sold nationwide. D’Amore recently revealed a collaboration with Jordan Brand to help launch one of its new silhouettes, the Flight Court. Big corporations are setting their eyes on Who Decides War to help legitimize themselves with a younger audience. Its range of products sits at the intersection between graphic-driven streetwear and avant-garde fashion, where many brands try to reach but fail. As more people from around the world discover Who Decides War, Bravado and D’Amore are poised to ascend even higher. –Mike DeStefano

2023 Ranking: N/A (New)

Marc Jacobs’ influence in New York fashion is uncontested. But in streetwear? Yes, in streetwear. Over the four decades Jacobs has been active, he’s been paving the way for street culture’s convergence with luxury, long before the two worlds really collided in the 2010s. Pharrell put it perfectly during his System magazine interview with Jacobs in February: “You started this. You built this house, and you knocked down the first domino that got me to this place.”

It was with Jacobs that Pharrell and NIGO co-designed and launched the iconic Louis Vuitton Millionaire sunglasses in 2004. Jacobs had been LV’s creative director since 1997, and was responsible for popularizing the brand’s offering beyond bags and travel accessories. Under his leadership, Vuitton’s business flourished in the arenas of ready-to-wear, watches, jewelry, and even fragrances. Jacobs inherently understands the power of branding and brand expansion, and continues to exercise his design and business acumen to branch out with his own eponymous label.

His diffusion line Heaven, which launched in 2020, is perhaps the closest thing Gen Z fashion kids have gotten to their own version of streetwear. Its kitsch, casual aesthetic, blending Y2K and punk influences, makes it one of the most desirable and anticipated apparel releases every season. And while resonating with a much younger demographic through Heaven, Jacobs has also succeeded in making his mainline collection relevant to a new generation of social media users. His brand managed to run the most memorable fashion campaign of the year through a series of viral user-generated content on TikTok. Everyone from @Nates.Vibe to even the Teletubbies have been seen dancing with Marc Jacobs’ Snapshot camera bag.​​ The MJ Tote has risen as the new NYC it-bag alongside Telfar’s shopper and Luar’s Ana. The likes of Lil Uzi Vert, Kai Cenat, Cardi B, and Cindy Sherman remain as long-standing ambassadors.

Streetwear powerhouses are also loyal to Marc Jacobs. For the brand’s 40th anniversary this year, Pharrell, Tremaine Emory, Takashi Murakami, and Futura were among those who starred in the celebratory campaign. NIGO and Cactus Plant Flea Market reimagined some of Jacobs’ archival styles for a limited release. If streetwear is rooted in community, Marc Jacobs is deep in it. –YJ Lee

2023 Ranking: #12

After a tumultuous year in which he abruptly exited Bally and was accused of misappropriating his funds at Rhude, Rhuigi Villaseñor hit the reset button in 2024. For the spring/summer 2025 season, he made the bold decision to take his brand off the Paris Men’s Fashion Week schedule in June and show independently the following month in Lake Como, Italy.

Villaseñor has been redirecting his attention on Rhude instead of collaborating with other brands, which in the past have included Puma, Zara, and Lamborghini. His head-down approach is allowing him to focus and expand on his own in-line offerings, such as more footwear.

Despite Villaseñor’s expansion toward more luxury ready-to-wear apparel and accessories, Rhude’s position as streetwear royalty remains. His dedicated fanbase includes Future, Big Sean, and ASAP Rocky, who seamlessly integrate the brand’s core denim pieces into their wardrobe both on and off stage. Turns out that a rocky 2023 was just the fuel Villaseñor needed to return to winning this year. –Mikeisha Vaughn

2023 Ranking: #10

As it approaches its 10-year anniversary next year, Cactus Plant Flea Market still reigns as streetwear’s go-to collaborator and merch provider, bringing its patented DIY-vibe to whoever is worthy of the CPFM freak flag. In 2024 so far, that collaborator list has been quite eclectic, from the endlessly talented Andre 3000 to I Think You Should Leave comedian Tim Robinson. The brand was even brought on for a special Minions collection for the Pharrell-sountracked movie Despicable Me 4.

Cactus Plant Flea Market also showcased a runway with Junya Watanabe for spring/summer 2025 and redesigned Marc Jacobs’ 1985 Smiley sweater for the brand’s 40th anniversary, which was one of the most anticipated and talked-about streetwear partnerships this year. Earlier this month, Kid Cudi and Lil Yachty were spotted in never-before-seen Cactus Plant x Nike jerseys, getting fans excited for another potential collaboration release. CPFM’s continued popularity alongside the who’s-who of the fashion-forward set is a testament to the label’s depth and breadth of influence. –Nick Grant

2023 Ranking: #19

Now a highlight and mainstay of the Paris menswear schedule, Grace Wales Bonner is one of her generation’s greatest fashion success stories. Since winning the LVMH Prize in 2016, Wales Bonner has cemented her reputation as a research-driven master of craft, bringing esoteric histories and narratives into the contemporary fashion conversation. Collaborators along the way have included Dior and Savile Row tailors Anderson & Sheppard, but her most ingenious partnership by far has been through her wildly successful Adidas Originals line. Wales Bonner brought an archival sensibility to the German sports titan, reinvigorating the brand’s retro staples with vintage craft techniques and luxurious textures.

The greatest footprint that Wales Bonner has left on the streetwear scene is with the gum-soled Samba. Her numerous interpretations of the shoe have catapulted the iconic ’50s football silhouette into the hearts of a new generation of fashion nostalgics. It has had a significant knock-on effect for Adidas, with its original model seen on everyone from ASAP Rocky and Frank Ocean to even former UK prime minister Rishi Sunak.

With her name routinely floated in the running for some of the most prestigious jobs in fashion, we often daydream about what she could do with the budget, atelier, and reach of a big house in her hands. –Mahoro Seward

2023 Ranking: #23

Angelo Baque has had a busy 2024, operating Awake NY’s Lower East Side shop (which celebrated its one-year anniversary in May) and collaborating with an eclectic range of New York talent, including graffiti artists SKUF YKK and JA ONE XTC, rapper Ferg, and photographer Shadi Perez. Baque, who was born and bred in Queens, is focused on bringing his community together for cultural impact that extends well beyond streetwear.

The block parties outside his Orchard Street retail outpost are some of the most “we out here” experiences downtown NYC has seen in a minute. In partnership with the Queens Museum and Marshall, he also co-hosts a series of “Live from Awake NY” performances at his shop, featuring veteran artists like Styles P as well as up-and-comers.

Awake’s other 2024 collaborators include Levi’s, and of course, longtime partner Jordan Brand. The March release of the Awake NY x Jordan Air Ship sneaker and accompanying apparel collection was met with such high demand that they decided to restock in May. The best part? The highly anticipated collab will be dropping another batch—including a new Air Ship colorway—this October. –Nick Grant

2023 Ranking: #14

NIGO is one of the very few, if not the only, OG trailblazers of streetwear who is still actively making waves in the industry today. The inventor of the beloved (and eventually hated) Shark hoodie and the controversial Bape Sta sneakers (more on that later), NIGO has remained at the center of the international fashion scene for over three decades.

This year is no different: In August, NIGO announced a new Human Made flagship in Seoul, joining Kith, Palace, and Supreme, who are all betting on the Korean capital’s burgeoning streetwear demand. Halfway across the globe in Paris, NIGO has consistently delivered through his ongoing creative directorship at Kenzo, where his modern street-casual aesthetic has bolstered a significant refresh for the LVMH-owned house.

Speaking of Kenzo, NIGO teased his first collaborative Nike T-shirt on the brand’s fall/winter 2024 runway in January, and then a candy-colored Air Force 3 sneaker on its spring/summer 2025 show in June. Although a heritage luxury brand in its own right, Kenzo could have never achieved such brand alignment with Nike without the presence of NIGO.

That NIGO was able to strike a deal with Nike at all is also worth noting. The two have had a tumultuous relationship dating back at least 15 years, when the sportswear giant first flagged the Bape Sta sneakers as being problematic knock-offs of the Air Force 1s. Though NIGO was no longer part of Bape’s leadership when Nike ended up suing Bape in 2023, the Swoosh was still labeling NIGO’s design as copyright infringement. The lawsuit ended with Bape settling to discontinue the sneakers altogether, effectively extinguishing a big flame of NIGO’s legacy. But if you thought that would deter the designer from collaborating on the AF1 silhouette, think again: In July, Steven Victor teased the Victor Victor x NIGO x Nike AF1s, which are speculated to release ahead of NIGO’s next hip-hop compilation album.

Besides his work with brands, NIGO’s persona as an individual was also propelled back into relevancy this year. The Japanese designer’s retro Urahara style—which he helped pioneer in the early 2000s—was more visible than ever with the resurgence of Y2K nostalgia. Fashion archivists and enthusiasts on social media repeatedly paid their respects to NIGO and fellow designer Jun Takahashi by resurfacing old photos of them together on countless Instagram moodboards. NIGO is his own frontman, a brand himself. There’s a reason the man stylizes his name in all caps. –YJ Lee

2023 Ranking: #18

In 2009, Lev Tanju co-founded Palace, an irreverent skate label born out of London’s Southbank Centre scene. Even back then, what made it distinct was its eclecticism, kickflipping skate style out of its box and bringing it into the worlds of football, high fashion, and rave. Since then, Palace has become perhaps the most influential British voice in the global streetwear arena. And its founding spirit remains intact, thanks to Tanju.

Just this year, the mastermind has spearheaded link-ups with the likes of Vivienne Westwood, Berghaus, Stella Artois, GAP, and even Brompton—purveyors of the folding commuter bikes beloved by London middle managers—adding these names to a roster that already includes Gucci, McDonald’s, and Harrods. He also opened a new standalone storefront in Seoul, Palace’s second in Asia.

This year, Tanju’s reputation as one of streetwear’s eminent tastemakers was bolstered when the Londoner notched a second gig as the creative director of FILA+, a new premium line under the Italian sports label. The collection, which hit retailers like Dover Street Market in September, showcases an elevated sensibility from the designer, demonstrating that Tanju can really do it all. –Mahoro Seward

2023 Ranking: #15

Over the past two decades, James Whitner has proven himself as a visionary entrepreneur in the business of streetwear. His Social Status, APB, and A Ma Maniére retail empires encompass a cumulative 23 storefronts across the US that not only include immersive, high-end shop concepts, but also a boutique hotel and a restaurant. Whitner is committed to empowering the Black community by creating spaces beyond New York and Los Angeles, a mission that shows no signs of stopping.

In May, Whitner opened A Ma Maniére Beach, a luxurious seaside sanctuary on the shores of Folly Beach, South Carolina. The three-story boutique resort also acts as a retreat center that hosts events for community youth, uplifting the Black and brown locals who were once denied access to those grounds. Whitner uses his entrepreneurial endeavors to build inclusivity and tell meaningful stories. There is no power without purpose and people, and Whitner has created a lane of his own to strengthen his support through incredible products and experiences.

Whitner’s footwear collaborations also continue to dominate the sneaker space. Both Nike and Jordan Brand have released highly exclusive and coveted product with the AMM logo. For A Ma Maniére’s 10th anniversary this year, Nike unveiled a six-pair sneaker collection titled “While You Were Sleeping,” which is being released in increments and is sure to sell out. –Bree Walker

2023 Ranking: #16

Since commanding everyone’s attention with his debut New Balance project back in 2020 (and helping to inject hype into the footwear brand that it has held onto ever since), Joe Freshgoods has continued to prove that he is far from a one-hit wonder. In fact, he’s one of the most consistent designers in streetwear today.

His thoughtful sneaker collaborations—which often sell out within minutes—are the driving force behind much of his work. In 2024, that meant a reintroduction of the New Balance 1000 accompanied by a campaign celebrating Chicago’s juking parties of the 2000s, and monochromatic 990v6s with visuals that nodded to the importance of prom in Black culture. Those are the types of stories that Joe always strives to tell with his projects—authentic narratives that speak to the Black experience. His stellar execution has cultivated a devoted following, and racked up brand award nominations in the process.

Sneakers aren’t the only Joe Freshgoods product worth paying attention to. His apparel continues to get stronger with each passing collection, and complements his footwear perfectly. This year’s offering includes T-shirts that call back to Spike Lee’s wardrobe in the ’90s and cozy fleece zip-ups in the vivid colors that have become his signature. He even designed the official merch for his hometown music festival Lollapalooza to celebrate its 20th year.

His IRL activations also go the extra mile. During Paris Men’s Fashion Week in June, he hosted a classic cookout with New Balance that turned into one of the hottest parties of the week. Two months later, he returned to the City of Light for “A Kid Named Cousin,” a pop-up for his aforementioned 990v6s that doubled as an art gallery spotlighting Black artists from around the world. That level of authenticity that Joe Freshgoods brings to every project can’t be taught or fabricated. –Mike DeStefano

2023 Ranking: #11

Whether it was her recent collaborations with Tommy Hilfiger and Supreme, or the bubbling rumors around her candidacy for the Louis Vuitton job that eventually went to Pharrell Williams, there have been plenty of reasons for Martine Rose’s name to be at the tip of everyone’s tongues. The greatest, though, is the work she puts out under her namesake label which has shifted the course of contemporary menswear.

Her enduring sources of inspiration are the motley crew of London characters she knows well, having spent her life immersed in the city’s myriad subcultures. Drawing on illegal raves, skate parks, football terraces, market stalls, commuter trains, and more, Rose’s work is streetwear in the most literal sense. From the outset, she’s designed with an unparalleled sense of both humanity and subversive cheekiness, using fashion as a means to celebrate the offbeat characteristics that define the city she calls home.

A stint as a consultant on some of Demna’s earliest menswear collections for Balenciaga saw her reputation boom, with the intentionally gawkish, sexy-yet-so-ordinary look she pioneered. Without Martine Rose, there would be no Balenciaga as we now know it.

Of course, that’s not the only brand to have cottoned on to her ingenuity. Nike remains among the most ardent champions of Rose, especially since the success of their collaborative Shox MR4, the deliciously weird sneaker-mule-wedge that’s had street-style heads in a chokehold since 2022.

Kendrick Lamar is also among Rose’s greatest supporters. The Pulitzer Prize-winning rap maverick selected the designer for a merch capsule tied to the release of his and Baby Keem’s “The Hillbillies” and sported a wardrobe’s worth of her threads—including a khaki field jacket and a cheeky ‘How’s it Hanging?’ tee—in the era-defining video for “Not Like Us.”

Martine Rose’s collaboration with Supreme—another label she’s rumored to be a longstanding consultant for—has no doubt kicked up a similar storm, with highlights including a three-way collaboration with Clarks, for whom Rose currently serves as guest creative director. And with the recent decision to take her shows beyond London to Paris and Milan, it looks like Rose’s trajectory to world domination is well on its course. –Mahoro Seward

2023 Ranking: #21

Wait, didn’t Ye lose all of his major brand deals? Well, yes. A string of antisemitic remarks by Ye led to very public splits with Adidas and Gap in 2022. (He has since apologized.) However, Ye’s independent run is precisely why we think he deserves such a high ranking on this list.

Throughout 2024, Ye has still managed to sell millions of dollars worth of $20 products off his Yeezy site alone, without any backing from a major corporation. Remember his Super Bowl ad, which was a selfie video of him talking to his phone camera? It resulted in over $19 million in sales of his Yeezy Pods, T-shirts, and sweatpants. Yeezy was also responsible for arguably the hottest women’s streetwear item of 2024, the “WET” tank top designed with Mowalola Ogunlesi. Championed by the likes of his wife Bianca Censori and Tyla, the see-through white top became an it-item for countless women. It was also duped to death, a true indicator of market influence.

You can also still see plenty of Adidas Yeezys on the streets. Pairs like the 350 V2 and 700 have become the everyman sneakers that Ye always strived for them to be. Those boxy cropped hoodies you see everyone selling now? Ye started that wave too, with Yeezy Gap a few years ago. Despite the controversies surrounding him, there are very few people who can cause such shifts in the fashion industry as much as the man formerly known as Kanye West. –Mike DeStefano

2023 Ranking: #9

If there’s one person who’s most closely followed the Ye playbook, it’s his longtime friend and collaborator Travis Scott. And it’s paid off. The most obvious evidence is Scott’s ongoing partnership with Nike. In a down market for sneaker reselling, his earth-toned Air Jordan 1 Lows still sell out instantly and get flipped for big money. He also released his own signature sneaker, the Jumpman Jack, in May. (We still can’t believe he got Ye to star in a video campaign for a Nike sneaker in 2024.)

Nike isn’t the only brand tapping in with Travis to sell product. Audemars Piguet enlisted Scott to create a super-limited run of brown ceramic Royal Oaks and even released an accompanying merch capsule, the first time the Swiss horologist ever released apparel.

The Mo City native doesn’t operate his own clothing label in the way others do on this list, but the attention to detail he puts into his Cactus Jack merch makes it feel like one. Most recently, he made waves with his limited-edition collabs with Cactus Plant Flea Market and Sp5der to celebrate the 10th anniversary of his seminal mixtape Days Before Rodeo (Free Thugger, by the way). Meanwhile, students on college campuses around the country lined up for blocks to get their hands on a special capsule with the NCAA, Mitchell & Ness, and Lids.

Travis Scott has the Midas touch. He’s not just following the Ye playbook; he may have perfected it. –Mike DeStefano

2023 Ranking: #8

While indie Instagram labels are popping up left and right, established brands are scraping by, merging and shuttering storefronts to stay afloat. Stüssy, however, has cultivated, optimized, and perfected its business operation. As the self-proclaimed “Chief Garmento,” CEO David Sinatra has made sure Stüssy is built on one thing: scalability. For the brand, that means keeping the business in the family and executing an extremely selective growth strategy that promotes sustainability. It has also helped Stüssy solidify its brand equity in the market over time.

That plan was in full effect last year with the brand’s major move to eliminate big-box wholesale partners while expanding its own footprint with high-concept chapter store openings in Sapporo, Milan, and Chengdu. There was also an extremely successful NYC archive pop-up that had Tribe heads in their nostalgic feels.

Sinatra continues to hedge his bets to maximize success with timeless, tasteful collaborations alongside some of the brand’s tried-and-true partnerships that span all facets of style. To continue appealing to the growing European streetwear market, he partnered with Patta and Our Legacy; for its core consumer, there were collabs with the classic Levi’s, Converse and, of course, Nike. Mind you, this is all just in 2024 so far. Where Sinatra’s strategy shines most for the 34-year old brand is Stüssy’s unrelenting approach to doing what they know best: making dope shit that transcends age and culture. –Nick Grant

2023 Ranking: #3

When Jerry Lorenzo blessed the world with Fear of God in 2013, he wasn’t introducing a brand that just talked the “where streetwear meets luxury” talk—he walked it, then ran. The meteoric rise of the party promoter-turned-American luxury aesthete should be a master’s thesis topic. Having had no formal design training, he simply wanted to fill a gap in his wardrobe that others could also benefit from. Over a decade later, he is still growing year over year, hauling in an annual revenue between $200 and $300 million, thanks to ESSENTIALS.

Earlier this year, he launched Fear of God Athletics in conjunction with sportswear juggernaut Adidas, adding a third pillar to the Fear of God empire alongside ESSENTIALS and the main line. Lorenzo was chosen to design off-court and on-court gear for Adidas-sponsored powerhouses Indiana University and University of Miami. Admittedly, FOG Athletics underperformed in sales, but it was still a first-of-its-kind project for NCAA basketball that brought “tunnel fits” directly to the hardwood for hundreds of thousands of fans to gaze upon. Lorenzo’s appeal has spilled well outside of his fashion niche and onto US sports traditionally dominated by Nike, Under Armour, and the like. A Lorenzo counterpart once said, “No one man should have all that power,” but as Lorenzo has proven time and time again, some can, and should. –Nick Grant

2023 Ranking: #2

Since launching Denim Tears in 2019, Tremaine Emory has built a cult following who will line up for anything stamped with the brand’s signature cotton-wreath motif, including simple sweatsuits. While his stock on this list has dropped since last year’s ranking, his brand remains at the forefront of streetwear conversations and a favorite amongst celebrities.

Emory zeroes in on deep-rooted, distinct storytelling that contextualizes racism as the cornerstone of America and celebrates the African diaspora. His cotton wreath has evolved into one of the most recognizable symbols in fashion. Following the likes of Levi’s, Dior, and UGG, even Comme des Garçons featured Denim Tears’ cotton wreaths and African American flag in a line of leather goods this year.

In March, Emory opened a new flagship store in downtown New York, African Diaspora Goods, a cultural hub equipped with a research library. A month later, he fulfilled his dream collaboration with artist Arthur Jafa with a collection titled “Systematic Racism Controls America,” which took shots at his former employer Supreme.

Emory always has something to say, but some of his words and designs have been polarizing. His spring/summer 2024 “Kiss My Grits” collection—featuring watermelon and fried chicken-embellished sweatsuits as well as a resin chicken-bone necklace—received much backlash. His ideas tend to walk the line between promoting awareness and leaning into racial stereotypes. Despite it all, Emory is committed to the cause, creating designs that provoke emotions and conversations—even if not everyone agrees with his method of madness. –Mikeisha Vaughn

2023 Ranking: #4

Pharrell’s upward trajectory most closely mirrors the overall growth and expansion of streetwear itself, or perhaps even paves the way and foreshadows the possibilities of where streetwear is headed.

He has continued to do justice to his creative director post at Louis Vuitton. Although he had massive shoes to fill after Virgil’s passing, Pharrell has put his own spin on the brand and proved his doubters wrong. His forward-thinking instincts led him to appoint Tyler, the Creator as LV’s first guest designer of 2024, which—post Tyler’s Supreme campaign—was clearly a smart move.

Skateboard P’s influence beyond apparel has also reached new heights this year. His LVMH love affair extends to an ongoing fine jewelry line with Tiffany & Co., and he continues to make buzz in the art world through his Joopiter auctions, the most recent of which was with K-pop sensation G-Dragon at Frieze Seoul. In June, his skincare brand Humanrace released a limited-edition all-black set exclusively through Dover Street Market. And, in October, his animated Lego biopic Piece by Piece will hit theaters.

While not all of these endeavors might totally read street, they showcase Pharrell’s inherent understanding that streetwear has transcended its subculture beginnings into mainstream ubiquity. His fans exist outside of streetwear, too, a truth that will only grow with time. –YJ Lee

2023 Ranking: #6

Ronnie Fieg has built Kith into a global streetwear empire. There are now a staggering 19 retail locations operating around the world with the two most recent openings in Seoul and Malibu. And the brand’s famous collaborations? Well, Fieg is still collecting them like Infinity Stones.

Kith is clearly seen as a valuable partner by heritage brands eager to attract a new segment of customers. Giorgio Armani’s first-ever apparel collaboration in the brand’s 49-year history was with Kith this month. When Swiss watchmaker Tag Heuer wanted to release a special project to commemorate F1’s Miami Grand Prix in May, it joined forces with Kith to reimagine its Formula 1 model from the ’80s in 10 new colorways. And speaking of Infinity Stones, Fieg even made his own Infinity Gauntlet as part of a larger project to celebrate Marvel’s 85th anniversary that also included villain-inspired versions of the Asics GT-2160, PSA-graded comic books, and a Modernica chair.

And we have to mention the campaigns. At this point, there are no limitations to the talent that Fieg can get. Martin Scorsese appeared in his Armani campaign. For a collection celebrating the Summer Olympics, Kevin Durant made an appearance. Cam’ron fronted the Spring 2024 campaign, and K-pop sensation Lisa was the face of Kith Women’s summer collection the same year. It’s a consistent level of A-list talent that no other streetwear brand even comes close to matching. That additional layer of surprise to see who will be the next to model Kith makes each drop that much more special.

Critics of the brand may feel that its IP-driven capsules are uninspired, or that Kith may represent the over-commercialization of a once-niche genre of fashion. Even still, those same projects have undoubtedly introduced more people to streetwear. And that’s a win. –Mike DeStefano

2023 Ranking: #1

If you could describe the following Teddy Santis has assembled with one word, it would be “devout.” There is no denying the presence of his congregation in and outside of the sartorial sanctuary that is Aimé Leon Dore’s flagship on Mulberry Street in downtown New York. Santis is the unofficial Savior of Streetwear. And as LVMH continues to invest in his brand, the Cult of Santis is sure to get bigger.

His collaborative streak is unbroken with yet another ALD x Porsche to ogle, along with a fresh partnership with Rimowa where he remixed the German luggage brand with his new-age cool. As the creative director for New Balance’s Made in USA line, Santis consistently puts out NB’s most popular releases under the ALD name. In April, he also launched Aimé Leon Dore Golf, expanding the reach of his “luxury street” sensibility to cater to a potentially new segment of consumers.

However, Santis dropped a few spots in this year’s ranking. Our last year’s No. 1 has remained relatively quiet this year, but even so, he and ALD remain quietly loud. –Nick Grant

2023 Ranking: #5

Writing off Supreme as yesterday’s news has become a narrative many people subscribe to these days. Sure, the brand’s Thursday drops aren’t selling out as much as they used to, and VF Corp took a $600 million loss to get the brand off its books earlier this year. But if your brand is still worth a billion dollars, you’re doing something right.

James Jebbia’s Supreme continues to expand. Most recently, that meant opening flagships in Seoul and Milan. Rumors have it that Miami is up next, which would put the brand’s tally at 18 stores across three continents. Despite what some corners of the fashion industry may claim, giant corporations still rely on Supreme and its reputation as a purveyor of cool to legitimize their products. When Nike needed to put some more eyes on its new Air Max Dn in March, it collaborated with Supreme for a limited release. Nike also continues to let Supreme play around in the weird corners of its archive, releasing projects focused on obscure silhouettes like the Clogposite and Darwin Low throughout the past year. Outside of Nike, Supreme’s work with MM6 Maison Margiela and Martine Rose are some of the best fashion collaborations we’ve seen in the past 12 months.

That isn’t to say that Jebbia’s streetwear behemoth has a flawless track record. There are unanswered questions about Supreme’s workplace culture following Tremaine Emory’s resignation last year. EssilorLuxottica may want to put Supreme eyewear in Sunglass Huts. And while we loved the 2024 Tyler, the Creator photo tee, it may be a sign that Jebbia and the brand are feeling the pressure to recapture the attention of core fans. Despite these blemishes, there is no other brand in streetwear that can do what Supreme has been doing at such a large scale. Jebbia’s empire is undeniable. –Mike DeStefano

2023 Ranking: #24

In just 12 months, Clint419 vaulted from Number 24 to just shy of the top spot, cementing his reputation as one of the most directional, influential figures in streetwear right now. So what exactly has the Corteiz founder done right?

Since Corteiz debuted in 2017, a key factor in how the brand has gamed its way to the top is its mastery of guerilla marketing. For example, there are the random, one-off product drops and a password-protected site, with the brand’s legion of fans only tipped off via email or Clint’s Instagram Stories moments before the Alcatraz-logoed goods land—all of which are snapped up minutes later.

And then there are the brand’s physical activations. Location pins drop on launch day—often at off-the-beaten-track spots—and Corteiz still draws hordes of acolytes by the hundreds. Its “DA GREAT DENIM EXCHANGE” in Brooklyn this past May saw way more attendees turn up than the swappable 300 Corteiz pairs of jeans. On a couple other occasions, the fan frenzy was so intense that police turned up to control the crowds.

While Clint is known to be press-averse, the opposite goes on social media, where he speaks directly to his hypnotized fanbase through candid tweets and the occasional reseller call-out post. These tactics aren’t about drumming up hype for the sake of a quick buck; they attest to the most valuable asset that Clint has managed to cultivate: a vital sense of community.

It’s a quality that’s increasingly rare in a streetwear landscape marred by corporatization, but it’s exactly what’s made Clint irresistible to some of the scene’s leading brands, Nike and Supreme among them. They’re keenly aware of the pulling power it takes to get fans to a Greenpoint warehouse at a moment’s notice, and, understandably, they’re eager to tap into that, too. –Mahoro Seward

2023 Ranking: #13

It would be hard to top the year that Tyler, the Creator has had. Back in February, Louis Vuitton announced him as a guest capsule designer. The results were exceptional: a pastel-shaded, streetwear-infused mix of his own hand-drawn monogram print on leather goods; whimsical accessories like cereal bowls and eclair-shaped coin pouches; and stellar outerwear. All of Tyler’s pieces were some of the best things we’ve seen from Pharrell’s LV era thus far. Then in August came a collaboration years in the making: Tyler x Supreme.

It’s no exaggeration to say that Tyler put an entire generation of young fans onto Supreme back in the 2010s. His recent Supreme campaign, as well as his own photo tee, was a full-circle moment that renewed interest in the brand. Not only did Tyler collaborate with LV and Supreme, he did so within the course of six months. That two brands of such caliber both saw value in aligning with Tyler—and he delivered on both occasions—speaks to exactly how influential he is right now.

In between these two career-defining collaborations, Tyler continues to perfect his own brands. Golf Wang collabs like the recent heart-embossed Clarks Wallabees show the label’s potential to elevate its offerings beyond graphic tees and hoodies. For those who prefer to take cues from Tyler’s current wardrobe, there is the more sophisticated Le Fleur line selling statement pieces like a pearl-covered wool cardigan alongside colorful takes on Globe-Trotter luggage and original fragrances. And let’s not forget about his ongoing footwear partnership with Converse, yet another big name relying on Tyler for street cred.

Plenty of musicians try to expand their portfolios through clothing brands. Some flounder quickly; others end up with glorified merch. Tyler’s endeavors stand out because he focuses on actually building worlds that channel his taste, without simply relying on his likeness to sell.

What makes all of this even more impressive is that Tyler constantly evolves without ever alienating or abandoning his core fans who still wax poetic about Fairfax Avenue and his “Yonkers” video. He’s been going strong for over a decade, and he’s finally reaping the benefits of his hard work and meticulous attention to detail. We only expect his foothold in the fashion world to get stronger moving forward. –Mike DeStefano