These Boots Are Made for…Everything

SHOP $295, tecovas.com

Welcome to the Esquire Endorsement. Heavily researched. Thoroughly vetted. These picks are the best way to spend your hard-earned cash.

It’s no secret that I’m big on boots. I’ve written about my beloved Blundstones. I’ve riffed on the philosophical implications of wearing cowboy boots as a thoroughly northern boy. I’ve encouraged you to add a pair of vintage-inspired hikers to your rotation. And now I’m here to talk about boots yet again. Hey, at least you know my love of the game (“the game,” in this case, being “boots”) is real.

This time around, the boots in question are by a brand I’ve called out before for its impressive blend of value and style: Tecovas. The Texas-based company is perhaps best known for classic cowboy boots and ropers. But the style I think far too many folks are missing isn’t either of those. It’s the Dean, a streamlined side zip that maintains the western vibe but offers increased versatility and a little rock ’n’ roll edge, to (ahem) boot.

Here’s why you should be zipping yourself into a pair this spring.

SHOP $295, tecovas.com

I understand the argument that you can wear cowboy boots with just about anything. My colleague, Luke, is living proof. But what Luke knows—and many politicians and wannabe cool guys do not—is that “just about anything” has one core caveat: The hem can’t be too small. You know that weird, broken-ankle look you see when guys like Elon Musk wear their cowboy boots with slim suit trousers? That’s because the shaft of the boot is too wide for the pants. You can’t decrease the circumference of the shaft unless you want to actually break your ankle putting them on. So you could loosen up the pants (generally advisable for a large segment of the population). Or you could avoid the issue entirely and shrink the shaft of the boot by changing it from a pull-on to a side zip. That’s what the Dean does. It may sound like a small thing, but it’s huge. Skinny jeans are back on the table, provided you’ve tuned the vibe toward mid-’60s rocker or mid-aughts indie sleazer (more on that in just a second). Weirdo cropped trousers? Yeah, they’ll work. As will your bootcuts, your straight legs, and everything else.

SHOP $295, tecovas.com

Even though menswear has been in rebellion against tight, tapered fits for a while now, there are some style tribes (like those inspired by Hedi Slimane’s one-two-three punch at Dior Homme, Saint Laurent, and Celine) that get a pass. Why? Because the vibe is just plain cool. It’s not necessarily accessible to everyone, but if the silhouette fits your body type and general demeanor, it’s never going to go out of style. And you know what looks absolutely great with a leather jacket and torn denim? A side-zip boot. The hardware gives it some extra oomph, the lines don’t break up the flow of the outfit, and—let’s be real—it feels a whole lot fresher than a pointy Chelsea boot, which endured a bout of overexposure from which it is still recovering. Even if you’re not going for something quite so on the nose, the Dean can bring a bit of that energy to whatever outfit you choose. A slick suit with this boot instead of a cap-toe oxford? Suddenly you’re channeling Dylan going electric in ’65 instead of your old roommate Kyle interning for Goldman in 2019.

SHOP $295, tecovas.com

I’ve talked about this before (right here, in fact) but Tecovas doesn’t skimp when it comes to construction. The Dean, like so many other offerings from the brand, is made in León, Mexico. If that sounds familiar, it’s because León is regarded the world over for its long—like 400 years long—history of shoemaking and leatherwork. It’s one of the few traditional centers of craftsmanship that’s still doing its thing to this day. The Dean gets a three-quarter Goodyear-welted sole—a mark of quality, and able to be resoled for a longer life span—as well as a steel shank for additional support. These things aren’t necessarily rarities in the footwear world, but they tend to up the cost significantly. Because Tecovas is built on a direct-to-consumer model, you get ’em for under $300. Speaking of value: Though the brand doesn’t specify where the leather itself comes from, it’s on par, in my experience, with that of boots that can cost a couple hundred dollars more (at least). In other words: They’ll start off good and get even better. And if you treat them right, they’ll keep getting better for years to come.

SHOP $295, tecovas.com

Photographs by Florence Sullivan