The Underrated American Menswear Brand You Should Be Buying Vintage

As the creator of the brand behind the Urban Sombrero, a consummate storyteller, and an extremely vocal fan of The English Patient, J. Peterman—a.k.a. Elaine’s boss on Seinfeld—is among the most beloved fixtures of 1990s TV. Lesser known these days is J. Peterman, the real-life fashion retailer whose Horseman’s Duster, Poet Shirt, and Himalayan Walking Shoe held a quirky yet prominent place in the mail-order catalog market for nearly a decade.

From its launch in 1987 to its untimely bankruptcy in early 1999, J. Peterman was a prime destination for cabled tennis sweaters, shearling flight jackets, and a ton of other vintage-inspired clothing, all of which were lovingly illustrated and described in flowery prose in the brand’s Owner’s Manual catalogs. J. Peterman was eventually revived in the early aughts and—in a twist befitting of a Seinfeld plot—is now part-owned by John O’Hurley, the actor who played him. But for anyone looking to own a piece from the brand’s golden era, the vintage market abounds with tempting artifacts, each of which tells its own story.

Horseman’s Duster

No single item looms larger in Peterman lore than this full-length ranch coat, which was the first piece the brand launched in 1988. “I bought the coat during a trip to Jackson Hole, Wyoming, because I liked it—it said something about me that I wanted said,” wrote founder John Peterman in The Harvard Review. “It was romantic, different. I found when I wore it, strangers seemed to give me approving glances. In airports, people would try to meet my eye as I walked by them. And I thought, “I like the way this feels; I wonder if there are others who would appreciate the feeling as well.” Indeed they did, and still do.

J. Peterman

Horseman’s Duster Rain Coat

Cowboy Fringe Coat

​​In keeping with Peterman’s nostalgic, sepia-tinted take on Americana, this jacket calls to mind the glory days of Teddy Roosevelt and Buffalo Bill Cody or—depending on what you’re going for—Dennis Hopper in Easy Rider. Early versions were made in the USA out of real deerhide, but no one can say this suede version is lacking in vibes.

J. Peterman

Western Suede Leather Fringe Overcoat

Counterfeit Mail Bag

Another classic Peterman joint, this is said to be inspired by a trusty satchel given to John Peterman by a retired US postal worker. Needless to say, it’ll serve you equally well on your daily rounds.

J. Peterman

Counterfeit Mail Bag

Mohair Sweater

To state the somewhat obvious, there was a fair amount of overlap between golden-era J. Peterman and Ralph Lauren, both of whom built their brands on tasteful edits of classic American sportswear and workwear. There were also a number of notable distinctions, not least of which was the sense of humor that infused many of J. Peterman’s offerings, like this adorable cottagecore sweater.

J. Peterman

Wool Mohair Sheep Farm Sweater

Reversible Tropics Jacket

Some days you want a lot of camo, and some days you just want a little. Genius.

J. Peterman

Reversible Tropics Jacket

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Safari Shirt

Another of Peterman’s greatest hits, the Safari Shirt calls to mind herds of wildebeest, sunsets over the savanna, and other vaguely colonialist connotations. But still, great shirt. You can also tell this one’s true vintage JP because it’s made in the USA.

Varsity Jacket

A classic varsity jacket deserves to be a first-round draft in every outerwear lineup. This version, made in the USA from cognac leather and kelly green wool, is a quintessential take.

J. Peterman

Varisty Jacket

Denim band collar shirt

If J. Peterman will be remembered for one thing, it’s Seinfeld. But he deserves to also be remembered as a guy who was absolutely ride-or-die for the band collar. Seriously, he made band collar shirts in pretty much every fabric and style, including the famous J. Peterman Shirt, which was said to be inspired by the wardrobe of Thomas Jefferson. You can’t go wrong with any of ‘em.

J. Peterman

Denim Band Collar Shirt

Hemingway Fishing Hat

There’s no evidence that J. Peterman ever made something resembling the Urban Sombrero, but the brand definitely had a lock on kooky headwear. This leather-brimmed hat, based on one famously worn by Papa H on fishing trips in the Caribbean, is among their best efforts.

J. Peterman

Hemingway Fishing Hat