Kincaid Archive isn’t really a fashion brand in the traditional sense. It’s more of a nirvana for thrifty types—part store, part archive, part insider secret. Ryan Gosling’s coat? Cillian Murphy’s belt? Both from there. It’s the kinda place where stylists go when they want something authentic, not algorithmic.

But The Bear star’s shirt wasn’t just vintage—it was altered. The OG chest patches had been ripped straight off, leaving stitch marks where they once sat. The hem had also been cropped short, just enough to hit perfectly at the waistline. That detail matters: it gave it a neater, boxier shape that framed his torso without the bulk of a standard work shirt. Plus, he left it frayed and distressed for a true DIY-ish vibe.

Cropping vintage shirts has been a popular move among TikTok fashion guys as of late. It’s a way to experiment with proportion, sure, but it’s also a rebellion against fast fashion, where absolutely everything is made in the same shape and silhouette no matter what shape and silhouette you actually are. It’s a way of saying you know your clothes and your body well enough to tailor them yourself. And that’s exactly what White’s fit communicated.

No logos. No hype. Just a neat tweak here and there that made an old shirt feel new again. Sometimes, the best styling move isn’t buying something different—it’s making what you already own fit you better. And clearly, Jeremy Allen White got the memo.

This story originally appeared on British GQ.

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